Day 12. First day in S.A, a giant sink hole and a lake that made us feel blue!

19.01.2013

It had been an uncomfortable nights sleep in Priscilla - our camper van - after temps peaked at 40oC (104oF!) yesterday, but it was a cooler start to day 12 of the trip and we were ready to drive the 15 km across the border to South Australia. On route, we passed numerous Quarantine signs warning us not to bring fruit, vegetables, plants or grapevines across the border. Quarantines are enforced in most states to prevent fruit fly or phylloxera (related to an aphid) infestations which can ruin crops, and so bins are provided along the free ways for disposal of fruit and veg.

It wasn't long until we arrived in Mount Gambier, which manages to hold the title of second biggest city in S.A with a modest population of just 24,000 people! This is possible because over 70% of people in the  entire state live in it's capital of Adelaide, where we would visiting in a few days time. 

Stop #1 today was the giant Umpherston Sinkhole which over time has been transformed into a beautiful "sunken garden". It is the less popular tourist attraction here, but a great place to explore. You can climb down the steps into what is basically a large hole in the ground and take in the wildlife or the small caves along the edges. Originally the whole site was a large cave much like the ones found all over this part of Oz, but the top of the chamber collapsed - or sunk - downwards creating the hole. The topsoil is very rich and provides lots of nutrients to feed the huge array of plant life here. The spot is also very popular with the local possums, particularly at dusk when there is a dedicated possum tour here most evenings.

We then headed into the CBD to pick up a different type of transport to make our way to stop #2. A number of cycles found at the town library are hired out completely free of charge - we left a swipe of our credit card as bond and we were on our way to the most famed landmark in Mount Gambier. Unfortunately the route was slightly uphill and neither of us are particularly fit, so the novelty of the bikes soon wore off!

All that effort was worth it when we got there though. The Blue Lake is a large lake located next to the extinct volcanoes which dominate this region. It was originally one of four crater lakes in the town but two have dried up over the last 40 years due to dropping water levels, and so now only two remain - and it is this one that provides the most interest! It is a big lake with an average depth of around 72 meters (75m at it's deepest) and it measures 1087m (3566 feet) by 657m (2155 feet). What makes it special is that whilst most of the year it is an ordinary grey colour, during December to March the water turns to a vibrant blue. The exact cause is still argued by scientists but it is thought that the warming of the water to 20oC+ during summer months causes micro-crystallites of calcium carbonate to form, causing a scatter of blue wavelengths of sunlight and creating this rich but beautiful shade of colour.

The photos don't show just what a magnificent shade of blue the lake is in real life. It is stunning to witness in person and you can take in the view from various look-outs dotted around the large crater. There are other lakes (although some are dried up) and other pretty views to be found in the surrounding parkland. The mystery behind the magical colour - which is still contested to this day - only adds to the allure of the place, making it well worth a visit. 

After taking in the beautiful sights, we returned our bikes to the library just in time to watch the free documentary shown here about the volcanic history of the whole area and the 8 volcanic eruptions which led to Mount Gambier's existence. It is a surprisingly high calibre docufilm, which lasts an hour and is packed with interesting information, great visuals and fascinating commentary. Whilst here it is also worth checking out the second, smaller sink hole located next door to the library -  it may not be as big but it is equally as impressive. We finished the day at our camp site at Mount Gambier Showground which was the most basic  (and at $20, the cheapest) one we stayed in throughout the whole trip. Still, we had power, some old-fashioned bathroom & shower facilities and a few friendly neighbours. 

I will end this post with a couple of photo's from earlier in the day. These are examples of the many anti-speeding road signs found all over Oz but we particularly enjoyed the ones found in this part of the country. Whilst they send out a serious message, the use of humour certainly brought a smile to our faces - and of course, we always strictly kept to the speed limit at all times on our trip.

Check out my next post when we take a trip down a couple of caves in Naracoorte, S.A - an awesome and unforgettable experience!

Day 10 & 11. Thunder Cave, Sherbrook River and London Bridge (or Arch)!

16.01.2013

It was still Day 10 of the trip, but there were many more amazing sites to be seen. We were in Port Campbell National Park and had just enjoyed the beauty of both the Twelve Apostle's and Loch Ard Gorge. First stop today was Thunder Cave, a huge cavern cared into the limestone cliffs. Whilst you aren't able to go into the cave itself, you get an awesome view of the sea crashing into it and the sea foam it creates. The  noise of the foamy, raging sea is incredible and comparable to thunder, hence the name!

We continued to explore the area, and took a walk along the coast. We ended up at the point where Sherbrook River meets the Southern Ocean. Standing there on the sand means that in one direction you see the quiet, trickling river streaming towards you and in the other, you see (& hear) the rough ocean slamming into the coast. It is a dramatic difference to take in. Even on a hot, sunny day like this there is no rest bite for the shore from the raging ocean. We loved standing on the edge of the rocks and seeing the massive waves explode up on them. There was not a single other person around and we were spoilt with these magnificent views all to ourselves!

London Arch is a natural arch found on the Victorian coast. Originally, it was a double spanned natural bridge which, due to the similarity in appearance, gave it the name London Bridge. Until 1990, you could walk out onto it but in January of that year the nearest arch unexpectedly collapsed leaving two tourists stranded, awaiting rescue by helicopter. Whilst it is now just a single arch, it still provides a spectacular shot -especially with the raging waves surrounding it.

We had planned on spending the night in Port Campbell itself, but upon arrival we didn't like the park so we drove the extra 70km to stay in Warrnambool. We paid $42 to stay at Hopkins River Holiday Park, which was relatively expensive compared to other parks. That said, it was a huge place filled with families taking advantage of the hot sunshine, but this also meant there were a lot of young children around. We made use of the pool to cool down, and there were lots of facilities on site for both adults and kids to enjoy.

The next morning, we decided to enjoy a day on Warrnambool beach. It was forecast to hit a blisteringly hot 38oC so we made sure we slip, slap, slopped using high factor sun cream. It's always nice to enjoy a day at the beach but by the afternoon it was starting to get too hot, and we made a move. The radio had warned us that the extreme heat meant there was a severe bush fire alert today and needless to say, our journey saw us drive through the thick smoke of a raging bush fire nearby. Luckily we weren't too close, but it was still an experience to drive through the smoke with our headlights on in the middle of the day. It is a very real reminder of the danger of the burning sun in this dry, barren corner of the country.

                                                     The plume of smoke of a bush fire, and driving towards it.

After making it through the smoke, we made our way to a free camp spot in a town called Dartmoor. This would be our last day in Victoria on this part of the trip. The town itself was tiny, with a population of just 218 people and yet it still had a shop, Post Office, Butcher, Mini Museum, Library, School, Church, Motel/Hotel and a Bowls Club! I couldn't imagine living in such a remote place, still  thinking my hometown of 130,000 people is too small! By the time we arrived, the temperature had risen to 40oC and we spent an evening with the Kindle under the cooling shade of the tree's having explored he town and it's free shower facilities for campers. But, as you can imagine, it was an uncomfortable night spent in in Priscilla with no electricity outlet for the fan!

Escaping the 40oC heat in Dartmoor under the shade of the trees!

Day 10. The Twelve Apostles and Loch Ard Gorge!

16.01.2013

As much as we didn't want to leave the mesmerising Johanna Beach, we got up early on Day 10 as we had so many sites to see. We were continuing our journey along the beautiful Great Ocean Road towards some of Victoria's most famed natural landmarks.

Our first destination was the most famous of them all, the Twelve Apostles which form part of the spectacular Port Campbell National Park. When visiting the site, you are bluntly warned of two dangers here; snakes and unstable cliffs! To quote the sign, "You may fall and DIE." This didn't deter us and you will be pleased to hear we didn't encounter any dangerous reptiles (on this occasion, but we do see a snake later on in the trip!) or fall down any cliffs. 

If you aren't aware, the Twelve Apostles are a collection of limestone stacks located on the coast near the Great Ocean Road. They are formed by erosion caused by the rough sea conditions experienced in the Southern Ocean. The basic process is that the sea erodes the soft limestone rock to form a cave, which continues eroding to eventually become an arch, which over time collapses to leave a giant stack of rock which can be up to 45 metres high. It is ongoing and there are still many caves and arches lining the Victorian coastline which have yet to collapse. 

Despite originally being called the Sow and Piglets (our next stop, the Loch Ard Gorge, was the Sow and theses stacks were the piglets), the site was renamed in 1922 for tourism purposes even though there have only ever been 9 stacks not 12! In 2005, a 50 metre high stack collapsed and another followed in 2009 meaning there are now only 7 left - and with an erosion rate at the base of the pillars of 2cm a year, more will tumble. However, the waves continue to batter the coastline and more stacks will form in the future.

As they are now, the stacks are breathtaking and it a very special place to visit. Being another hot & sunny day, we had magnificent blue skies as a backdrop to this beautiful coastline. Along with the other visitors there, we stayed for a while just to soak up the beauty and atmosphere. I would return here in a heartbeat and recommend any visitor to Australia to make the journey if they can!

Having loved every second of the 'piglets', we were equally as excited to see the 'Sow' - or Loch Ard Gorge as it is known today. You learn about it's history on the signs scattered around the gorge. The site was named after a ship called Loch Ard, which ran aground nearby in 1878 after a 3 month journey from England to Melbourne. Only 2 of the 54 people on board survived; a 15 year old ship apprentice who was washed up ashore here and a 17 year old Irish girl immigrating to Australia who the apprentice saved upon hearing her cries. The arch of nearby Island Archway collapsed in 2009 forming two unconnected rock pillars which have been officially named as Tom and Eva in memory of the two survivors of the tragedy.

Once you arrive, you are able walk along the edge and look back to get this amazing shot back towards the gorge. However, for the best view of all you walk down the stairs onto the beach itself. From here, you get an incredible view and it shows just how beautiful the ugly process of erosion can be. On one side, you see wonderful rock formations and on the other, you see the pathway which has been carved into the rock by the sea, forming this picturesque oasis. The waves gently lap onto the golden shore, with the steep cliff faces & rich, blue sky forming an amazing backdrop. Once again, we were witnessing one of the most beautiful sights I have ever seen and the memories will last a lifetime.

This was just one half of one hell of a day - in the next post we continue our journey to visit Thunder Cave, London Bridge and where Sherbrook River meets the ocean!

Day 9. The beginning of the Great Ocean Road!

15.01.2013

We left Melbourne early on day 9, eagerly anticipating the start of our journey on the Great Ocean Road. This was part of the road trip we were most excited about, and it certainly didn't disappoint. The road stretches 243 km (151 miles) along the Victorian coast line - spanning both the Surf and Shipwreck coasts - and it meanders through rain forest, as well as beaches, coastline & cliffs. It was built between 1919 and 1932 by soldiers returning from WW1; dedicated to the wars casualties, it is the worlds largest war memorial. It starts with this impressive sign stretching across the length of road, making for an exciting start!

The road begins at Torquay, a beautiful and sleepy seaside town. In the UK, there is a coastal town with the same name which is also famous for its beach, but this one definitely comes out on top! The hot sun was shining brightly as we took these photo's at the start of today's drive.

The sky and sea were both a rich, inviting blue and with not a cloud in the sky, the golden sand made our shots the picturesque Australia you see on commercials back home. It has been difficult choosing which photo's to accompany this post because there are just so many beautiful sights along the way. It is truly the most beautiful and stunning road I have ever travelled along. So much so, we found it hard to resist stopping at every twist & turn of the road to take yet more pictures. This said, we found ourselves stopping at any excuse to stop and admire some of the beautiful scenes. I have included a snapshot of images, taken from inside & outside the camper van, to give you an idea of just how breathtaking our views were.

An hour or so into the drive, we stopped yet again - but this was a planned lunch break at Apollo Bay. Before eating, we spent an hour on the beach soaking up some rays and making the most of the view. And of course, we couldn't resist a dip in the sea to cool us down from the beating sun. All this sunbathing can be hard work, and so we enjoyed a giant pizza on the beach front, followed by award-winning, Ferrero Rocher flavoured ice-cream at the the Ice-cream Tub. It tasted delicious, and we can see why it has won awards.

Apollo Bay - a beautiful spot for a spot of lunch!

It is an incredible drive along the coast line, which sees the van just metres from the ocean at its closest point, wind along tight corners, through beautiful rain forest canopy, past sandy beaches and curve along stunning cliffs. The journey would continue tomorrow, but for now we were headed through pretty countryside towards Johanna Beach, our free camp site for the night.

We arrived at the camp, situated right next to a long, secluded beach with large, crashing waves. You would think we would be getting bored with all this sun, sea & sand by now but we definitely were not. We decided to take a long walk along the beach, in the shadow of these magnificent rugged cliffs. 

                                                   Day 9 of the road trip on Johanna Beach

Before we knew it, the sun was sinking in the sky and we stayed on the beach to watch one of the most beautiful sunsets I have ever had the privilege of viewing. It was over way too soon, and not even the chilly winds which picked up while the sun disappeared below the horizon could dampen what was a fitting end to a magical day in Oz. 

But this exhilarating, amazing day was not over just yet. As if we hadn't seen enough beautiful sites to last a lifetime, our seclusion and location meant we had magnificent views of the night sky; littered with more twinkling stars than either of us had ever seen before. Away from major cities, the Australian night sky regularly offers a fantastic glimpse towards the stars, but these were by far the best pictures we managed to capture on our trip.

Check out my next post for even more beautiful images as our journey along the Great Ocean Road continues, including a visit to the famed Twelve Apostles. If anything, there are even more amazing sights to come!