Day 13. Exploring the caves in Naracoorte, S.A

20.01.2013

Apologies for the delay in getting around to writing my next post; the last two months have seen some monumental changes in my personal life which include moving back to the UK and splitting up with the man who I made & enjoyed this amazing trip with. Until now, it has been a little difficult to reflect back on our journey without some sadness and regret however I am now ready to continue sharing my experiences during what remains one of the most incredible experiences in my life.

Back to the blog and it's day 13 of the road trip - unlucky for some, but certainly not for us. It took a little over an hour to reach our next destination in the beautifully sparse South Australia, Naracoorte Caves National Park.

 

The park is S.A's only World Heritage site, being recognized as such in 1994 for its extensive fossil record considered to be the most complete fossil collection found in Australia. The 6 km² park has no less than 26 caves to explore with the World Heritage Site itself accounting for over half of it. It is a family-friendly site to explore with lots of signs and tracks alongside a shop, visitor centre, restaurant, camping ground and all the usual facilities you would expect. And a few you might not - such as this life-size statute of an ancient wombat-like creature (called a Diprotodon) which roamed Australia alongside the ancient indigenouse people until 25,000 years ago and who's fossils have been found on site. A very friendly looking chap eh!

It was the peak of summer in Australia and the temperatures were unrelentingly stuck in the high thirties celsius (and sometimes above this) so it was a relief to go underground for a little bit of shade. We arrived at the days first stop, a tour in Victoria Fossil Cave, which is perhaps the most famous in the park.

It was my first experience going down into a cave and owing to slight claustrophobia, I timidly ventured down into this cool underground cavern. Once down there, you are simply taken aback at the sheer breathtaking beauty of it all. The place is littered with countless stunning stalagmites (growing up from the ground) and stalactites (growing down from the roof). I could have stopped to take photo's for hours and been perfectly content. Of course we were on a guided tour with time limitations in place, but there was plenty of opportunities for snapping a photo or two. Our lovely guide explained the history of the caves and the science behind these formations in an informative yet interesting way. Being the geek I am (see the t shirt) I was certainly in my element! Check out the amazing photos.

What's particularly special about this cave - and what earned it being listed as a World Heritage Site - is the massive fossil record discovered here. 300,000 years worth of fossils were found in a 4 metre deep fossil bed which lay undisturbed for millennia. The cave was effectively a huge pitfall trap, thousands of animals fell in and were unable to escape; their skeletons remained and built up until they reached the roof and eventually the cave was sealed shut 15,00 years ago. Since excavation started 30 years ago, tens of thousands of specimens have been found at the site with over 93 individual vertebrate species providing a superb snapshot of Australian wildlife. On the tour we got to see a replica skeleton of an ancient kangaroo found here and a preserved excavation site which shows just how many fossils were - and still are - being found.

The cave acted like a huge natural pitfall trap: animals that fell in were unable to escape through the high entrance and died, their skeletons lying nearly undisturbed for millennia. As the cone grew, fans of sediment and animal bones spread out over the cave floor. The sediment pile eventually grew up to the ceiling and blocked the entrance about 15,000 years ago, sealing the cave and its contents until discovery. Over nearly 30 years of excavation and research more than 5000 catalogued specimens have been excavated from only 4% of what is estimated to be a staggering 5000 tonnes of bone-rich sediment. - See more at: http://australianmuseum.net.au/Naracoorte#sthash.QlZgnNKc.dpuf

For more than 300,000 years sediment and animal bones filled the Fossil Chamber through an opening in the ceiling, forming an enormous cone-shaped pile. The cave acted like a huge natural pitfall trap: animals that fell in were unable to escape through the high entrance and died, their skeletons lying nearly undisturbed for millennia. As the cone grew, fans of sediment and animal bones spread out over the cave floor. The sediment pile eventually grew up to the ceiling and blocked the entrance about 15,000 years ago, sealing the cave and its contents until discovery. Over nearly 30 years of excavation and research more than 5000 catalogued specimens have been excavated from only 4% of what is estimated to be a staggering 5000 tonnes of bone-rich sediment.
From the 3m - 4m deep fossil bed, tens of thousands of specimens representing at least 93 vertebrate species have been recovered, ranging in size from very small frogs to buffalo-sized marsupials. These include superbly preserved examples of the Australian Ice-Age megafauna as well as modern species such as the Tasmanian Devil and Thylacine, wallabies, possums, bettongs, mice, bats, snakes, parrots, turtles, lizards and frogs. The fossil material includes complete postcranial remains (many of which are partially articulated) and skulls so well preserved that even the most delicate bones are still intact. - See more at: http://australianmuseum.net.au/Naracoorte#sthash.QlZgnNKc.dpuf

For more than 300,000 years sediment and animal bones filled the Fossil Chamber through an opening in the ceiling, forming an enormous cone-shaped pile. The cave acted like a huge natural pitfall trap: animals that fell in were unable to escape through the high entrance and died, their skeletons lying nearly undisturbed for millennia. As the cone grew, fans of sediment and animal bones spread out over the cave floor. The sediment pile eventually grew up to the ceiling and blocked the entrance about 15,000 years ago, sealing the cave and its contents until discovery. Over nearly 30 years of excavation and research more than 5000 catalogued specimens have been excavated from only 4% of what is estimated to be a staggering 5000 tonnes of bone-rich sediment.
From the 3m - 4m deep fossil bed, tens of thousands of specimens representing at least 93 vertebrate species have been recovered, ranging in size from very small frogs to buffalo-sized marsupials. These include superbly preserved examples of the Australian Ice-Age megafauna as well as modern species such as the Tasmanian Devil and Thylacine, wallabies, possums, bettongs, mice, bats, snakes, parrots, turtles, lizards and frogs. The fossil material includes complete postcranial remains (many of which are partially articulated) and skulls so well preserved that even the most delicate bones are still intact. - See more at: http://australianmuseum.net.au/Naracoorte#sthash.QlZgnNKc.dpuf

Key stages in the evolution of the Australian climate and biota are included in the time span represented by the Naracoorte assemblage, including the period during which humans first arrived in Australia. The continent was becoming increasingly cool and dry, with occasional periods of warmer, wetter climate towards the Late Pleistocene. The dry and wet periods correspond to glacial and interglacial periods respectively on the other continents. These climatic changes, in particular increasing aridity, had profound effects on the Australian fauna and flora. By 15,000 years ago a significant number of large mammal species had become extinct.

Naracoorte fossils

For more than 300,000 years sediment and animal bones filled the Fossil Chamber through an opening in the ceiling, forming an enormous cone-shaped pile. The cave acted like a huge natural pitfall trap: animals that fell in were unable to escape through the high entrance and died, their skeletons lying nearly undisturbed for millennia. As the cone grew, fans of sediment and animal bones spread out over the cave floor. The sediment pile eventually grew up to the ceiling and blocked the entrance about 15,000 years ago, sealing the cave and its contents until discovery. Over nearly 30 years of excavation and research more than 5000 catalogued specimens have been excavated from only 4% of what is estimated to be a staggering 5000 tonnes of bone-rich sediment.
From the 3m - 4m deep fossil bed, tens of thousands of specimens representing at least 93 vertebrate species have been recovered, ranging in size from very small frogs to buffalo-sized marsupials. These include superbly preserved examples of the Australian Ice-Age megafauna as well as modern species such as the Tasmanian Devil and Thylacine, wallabies, possums, bettongs, mice, bats, snakes, parrots, turtles, lizards and frogs. The fossil material includes complete postcranial remains (many of which are partially articulated) and skulls so well preserved that even the most delicate bones are still intact.
- See more at: http://australianmuseum.net.au/Naracoorte#sthash.QlZgnNKc.dpu

For more than 300,000 years sediment and animal bones filled the Fossil Chamber through an opening in the ceiling, forming an enormous cone-shaped pile. The cave acted like a huge natural pitfall trap: animals that fell in were unable to escape through the high entrance and died, their skeletons lying nearly undisturbed for millennia. As the cone grew, fans of sediment and animal bones spread out over the cave floor. The sediment pile eventually grew up to the ceiling and blocked the entrance about 15,000 years ago, sealing the cave and its contents until discovery. Over nearly 30 years of excavation and research more than 5000 catalogued specimens have been excavated from only 4% of what is estimated to be a staggering 5000 tonnes of bone-rich sediment.
From the 3m - 4m deep fossil bed, tens of thousands of specimens representing at least 93 vertebrate species have been recovered, ranging in size from very small frogs to buffalo-sized marsupials. These include superbly preserved examples of the Australian Ice-Age megafauna as well as modern species such as the Tasmanian Devil and Thylacine, wallabies, possums, bettongs, mice, bats, snakes, parrots, turtles, lizards and frogs. The fossil material includes complete postcranial remains (many of which are partially articulated) and skulls so well preserved that even the most delicate bones are still intact. - See more at: http://australianmuseum.net.au/Naracoorte#sthash.QlZgnNKc.dpuf

Even this relatively spacious cave has some low roof heights - not always easy to navigate for the 6 foot 4 (193cm) boyfriend but all of these have been widened to accommodate the huge number of visitors who now visit. It's hard to imagine how cramped & compact the original site would have been but if it wasn't for the determination of the original excavators then we wouldn't have the fossil record we do now. And of course, exploring the passageways under the ground is actually really exciting and brings out the small child in anyone.

 

  

We then got the chance to explore a self-guided smaller cave on site, which ended up being a little more terrifying than we imagined. It was deserted and the different areas of the cave are lit up by motion detecting lights on the ground. As we strolled through, believing we were alone, we suddenly heard strange growling noises from the far corner of the cave. We inched closer to investigate and when two figures came hurtling towards us then I won't pretend my heart didn't skip a beat. Combined with the sharp scream escaping the boyfriend behind me, we both ran the other way as fast as we could until reality set in and we all fell about laughing. The two figures turned out to be two mischievous Ozzies who had hidden from us until the lights automatically switched off. It was definitely an eventful (but hysterical) end to a great day at the caves!

 

Watch out for the blog which see's us arrive into the states capital, Adelaide, with no end of the heat in site.

Day 12. First day in S.A, a giant sink hole and a lake that made us feel blue!

19.01.2013

It had been an uncomfortable nights sleep in Priscilla - our camper van - after temps peaked at 40oC (104oF!) yesterday, but it was a cooler start to day 12 of the trip and we were ready to drive the 15 km across the border to South Australia. On route, we passed numerous Quarantine signs warning us not to bring fruit, vegetables, plants or grapevines across the border. Quarantines are enforced in most states to prevent fruit fly or phylloxera (related to an aphid) infestations which can ruin crops, and so bins are provided along the free ways for disposal of fruit and veg.

It wasn't long until we arrived in Mount Gambier, which manages to hold the title of second biggest city in S.A with a modest population of just 24,000 people! This is possible because over 70% of people in the  entire state live in it's capital of Adelaide, where we would visiting in a few days time. 

Stop #1 today was the giant Umpherston Sinkhole which over time has been transformed into a beautiful "sunken garden". It is the less popular tourist attraction here, but a great place to explore. You can climb down the steps into what is basically a large hole in the ground and take in the wildlife or the small caves along the edges. Originally the whole site was a large cave much like the ones found all over this part of Oz, but the top of the chamber collapsed - or sunk - downwards creating the hole. The topsoil is very rich and provides lots of nutrients to feed the huge array of plant life here. The spot is also very popular with the local possums, particularly at dusk when there is a dedicated possum tour here most evenings.

We then headed into the CBD to pick up a different type of transport to make our way to stop #2. A number of cycles found at the town library are hired out completely free of charge - we left a swipe of our credit card as bond and we were on our way to the most famed landmark in Mount Gambier. Unfortunately the route was slightly uphill and neither of us are particularly fit, so the novelty of the bikes soon wore off!

All that effort was worth it when we got there though. The Blue Lake is a large lake located next to the extinct volcanoes which dominate this region. It was originally one of four crater lakes in the town but two have dried up over the last 40 years due to dropping water levels, and so now only two remain - and it is this one that provides the most interest! It is a big lake with an average depth of around 72 meters (75m at it's deepest) and it measures 1087m (3566 feet) by 657m (2155 feet). What makes it special is that whilst most of the year it is an ordinary grey colour, during December to March the water turns to a vibrant blue. The exact cause is still argued by scientists but it is thought that the warming of the water to 20oC+ during summer months causes micro-crystallites of calcium carbonate to form, causing a scatter of blue wavelengths of sunlight and creating this rich but beautiful shade of colour.

The photos don't show just what a magnificent shade of blue the lake is in real life. It is stunning to witness in person and you can take in the view from various look-outs dotted around the large crater. There are other lakes (although some are dried up) and other pretty views to be found in the surrounding parkland. The mystery behind the magical colour - which is still contested to this day - only adds to the allure of the place, making it well worth a visit. 

After taking in the beautiful sights, we returned our bikes to the library just in time to watch the free documentary shown here about the volcanic history of the whole area and the 8 volcanic eruptions which led to Mount Gambier's existence. It is a surprisingly high calibre docufilm, which lasts an hour and is packed with interesting information, great visuals and fascinating commentary. Whilst here it is also worth checking out the second, smaller sink hole located next door to the library -  it may not be as big but it is equally as impressive. We finished the day at our camp site at Mount Gambier Showground which was the most basic  (and at $20, the cheapest) one we stayed in throughout the whole trip. Still, we had power, some old-fashioned bathroom & shower facilities and a few friendly neighbours. 

I will end this post with a couple of photo's from earlier in the day. These are examples of the many anti-speeding road signs found all over Oz but we particularly enjoyed the ones found in this part of the country. Whilst they send out a serious message, the use of humour certainly brought a smile to our faces - and of course, we always strictly kept to the speed limit at all times on our trip.

Check out my next post when we take a trip down a couple of caves in Naracoorte, S.A - an awesome and unforgettable experience!

Day 10 & 11. Thunder Cave, Sherbrook River and London Bridge (or Arch)!

16.01.2013

It was still Day 10 of the trip, but there were many more amazing sites to be seen. We were in Port Campbell National Park and had just enjoyed the beauty of both the Twelve Apostle's and Loch Ard Gorge. First stop today was Thunder Cave, a huge cavern cared into the limestone cliffs. Whilst you aren't able to go into the cave itself, you get an awesome view of the sea crashing into it and the sea foam it creates. The  noise of the foamy, raging sea is incredible and comparable to thunder, hence the name!

We continued to explore the area, and took a walk along the coast. We ended up at the point where Sherbrook River meets the Southern Ocean. Standing there on the sand means that in one direction you see the quiet, trickling river streaming towards you and in the other, you see (& hear) the rough ocean slamming into the coast. It is a dramatic difference to take in. Even on a hot, sunny day like this there is no rest bite for the shore from the raging ocean. We loved standing on the edge of the rocks and seeing the massive waves explode up on them. There was not a single other person around and we were spoilt with these magnificent views all to ourselves!

London Arch is a natural arch found on the Victorian coast. Originally, it was a double spanned natural bridge which, due to the similarity in appearance, gave it the name London Bridge. Until 1990, you could walk out onto it but in January of that year the nearest arch unexpectedly collapsed leaving two tourists stranded, awaiting rescue by helicopter. Whilst it is now just a single arch, it still provides a spectacular shot -especially with the raging waves surrounding it.

We had planned on spending the night in Port Campbell itself, but upon arrival we didn't like the park so we drove the extra 70km to stay in Warrnambool. We paid $42 to stay at Hopkins River Holiday Park, which was relatively expensive compared to other parks. That said, it was a huge place filled with families taking advantage of the hot sunshine, but this also meant there were a lot of young children around. We made use of the pool to cool down, and there were lots of facilities on site for both adults and kids to enjoy.

The next morning, we decided to enjoy a day on Warrnambool beach. It was forecast to hit a blisteringly hot 38oC so we made sure we slip, slap, slopped using high factor sun cream. It's always nice to enjoy a day at the beach but by the afternoon it was starting to get too hot, and we made a move. The radio had warned us that the extreme heat meant there was a severe bush fire alert today and needless to say, our journey saw us drive through the thick smoke of a raging bush fire nearby. Luckily we weren't too close, but it was still an experience to drive through the smoke with our headlights on in the middle of the day. It is a very real reminder of the danger of the burning sun in this dry, barren corner of the country.

                                                     The plume of smoke of a bush fire, and driving towards it.

After making it through the smoke, we made our way to a free camp spot in a town called Dartmoor. This would be our last day in Victoria on this part of the trip. The town itself was tiny, with a population of just 218 people and yet it still had a shop, Post Office, Butcher, Mini Museum, Library, School, Church, Motel/Hotel and a Bowls Club! I couldn't imagine living in such a remote place, still  thinking my hometown of 130,000 people is too small! By the time we arrived, the temperature had risen to 40oC and we spent an evening with the Kindle under the cooling shade of the tree's having explored he town and it's free shower facilities for campers. But, as you can imagine, it was an uncomfortable night spent in in Priscilla with no electricity outlet for the fan!

Escaping the 40oC heat in Dartmoor under the shade of the trees!